Broad Spectrum Oil-in-Water BB Cream SPF 30

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate [Octinoxate]
3.00

Ethylhexyl salicylate [Octisalate]
5.00

SolaStay S1 (HallStar) (Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene)
2.00

Phase B

Iron Oxides (yellow) (CI 77492), Triethoxycaprylylsilane
0.83

Iron Oxides (red) (CI 77491), Triethoxycaprylylsilane
0.21

Iron Oxides (black) (CI 77499), Triethoxycaprylylsilane
0.13

Phase C

HallBrite EZ-Flo TDX (HallStar) (Butyloctyl salicylate, titanium dioxide [titanium dioxide], dimethicone crosspolymer, silica, triceteareth-4 phosphate)
10.00

Phase D

VP/Eicosene copolymer
1.00

Potassium cetyl phosphate, hydrogenated palm glycerides
1.00

HallStar GMS Pure (Hallstar) (Glyceryl stearate)
1.40

HallStar PEG 4400 MS (Hallstar) (PEG-100 stearate)
1.30

Phase E

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone]
3.00

Phase F

Water (Aqua) (deionized)
to 100

Glycerin
3.00

Tetrasodium EDTA
0.02

Xanthan gum (pharma grade)
0.20

Phase G

Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80
0.80

Preservative
0.60

Cyclopentasiloxane
4.00

Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate
a.n.

Procedure

Add phase A to secondary vessel and start mixing. Add milled phase B with continued mixing. When uniform, add phase C. Heat to 80°C. Add phase D with mixing. Add phase E and mix until fully dissolved. Add the water and glycerin of phase F to the main vessel and start mixing. Add the tetrasodium EDTA, then add the xanthan gum. Heat to 80°C. When both batches are homogeneous and at 80°C, slowly add phase ABCDE to phase F with mixing. Homogenize for 3 minutes, then start cooling. When batch is < 50°C, add phase G ingredients one by one with mixing. When the batch is again uniform, add deionized water to correct for evaporative losses. Continue mixing until smooth.